Energy Suspension Bushing Kits

These urethane bushings are stiffer than stock rubber bushings. They significantly reduce wheel hop and alignment changes under cornering stresses. While they can be quite affordable to buy, be careful what you wish for. They can be a major pain to install. They often require pressing or heating with a torch to remove the original bushings. Some of the bushings can be very difficult to get to. OK, now that we warned you, they do work. We use them on all our race cars and our own street cars, well worth the work.

Note: There was a design change in the front lower control arms in '03. The stock '03 bushings are much stiffer. The front control arm Energy kit will not fit the '03 cars and is also not needed. 

Note:   Energy Suspension does offer the rear sway bar bushing, but we will not stock these since we feel if you want better handling we suggest getting the ST rear sway bar instead.  Part number for the Energy Suspension rear sway bar bushing is 9-5122 for '00-05 4cyl. and 9-5123 for '00-05 V-6.

Eibach Pro Kit Springs

The Eibach Pro Kit springs will lower you Eclipse 1.3 inches for a clean look. The Pro Kit isn't a slammed dumpy look but hits just the right spot for better handling and still keep the necessary suspension travel.

Price is $220 for the Pro Kit set.

Progress Lowering Springs    $185 set

KYB AGX Adjustable

KYB finally got off their ass and made the AGX for the 3G Eclipse.  The AGX shocks allow you to tune your shock valving to match driving conditions in seconds. No need to lift vehicle or remove anything to change settings. Damping rate is selected with a screwdriver slot at the top of the piston rod.  Will fit all 00-05  Eclipse models (RS, GS, GT, and GT-S) including 99-03 Galant.

AGX on the left, Stock on the right.

Camber Kits

When you lower your Eclipse with lowering springs, your wheel alignment settings will change. As the car drops down, the suspension arms travel through an arc, and the effective lengths of the arms change. Both camber and toe-in are affected. Camber is the amount that the wheel tips inwards at the top. Toe-in is is how the wheels are pointed down the road, either towards each other ( / \  toe-in) or away from each other ( \ / toe-out). When the car is lowered, the camber goes negative and the toe goes out. 

Both will wear away the inside tread of the tires. Most people only notice the camber being off, it is easy to notice just looking at the car. What is actually killing the tires the most, is the toe being out too much. As you drive down the road, you are literally scrubbing the insides of the tires away. That is why some people kill tires within months of lowering a car.  With an Eclipse, toe in is adjustable, camber is not. Average Joe realizes that the insides of his tires are bald, sees the camber being negative, and thinks he needs a camber kit. Well... yes and no. If he would have at least had an alignment performed where they just set the toe-in adjustment correctly, the wear would be minimal. A little negative camber will give more grip in a corner, but add a little more tire wear. A worth while trade off for some. Typically, the rear wheels will camber in more noticeably than the front wheels. 

What to do?  With a spring kit like the Eibach Pro Kit, the camber change is minimal. To make the camber perfect, you would need a front and rear camber kit. This will give maximum tire life. However, for a little cost saving in not buying and installing the front camber kit, you will get a little more grip out of your front tires in a corner. The car will under steer a little less and handle a little better. It's your trade off.  If you have lowering springs that lower the car more than 1.5", then by all means, do a front and rear camber kit.  Either way, if you lower your car at all, get a four wheel alignment done the next day. Just having at minimum the toe-in adjusted will pay for it self in reduced tire wear many times over.

Front Camber Bolts by Specialty Products $50 for the set.

Rear Camber Spacer kit by RRE   $40 for the set.

Note:
These camber kits are designed with a moderate lowering spring such as the Eibach Pro Kit in mind. If you have springs that lower more than 1.5", they will correct the camber as much as possible, but may not get the car back to full factory spec. You will at least be close, it depends on your car and how low you are. Both kits are easily installed by a weekend mechanic. However, the car will need to be cruised slowly to an alignment shop for final adjustment of the front camber and the toe-in on all four wheels. If your car is dumpy low, ask for extra washers for the rear camber kit to allow for some additional adjustment.

Suspension Techniques Rear Sway Bar             $195

The stock GT rear sway bar is 20mm diameter, the ST rear bar is 22mm diameter. It includes new brackets and urethane bushings. The end links are a bearing type joint and give two adjustment positions for fine tuning. 

This rear sway will make your car handle better by making it more "neutral". Stock, the factory gives you a car that "understeers" some. When you have the car all leaned over at the limits of adhesion, the front tires have a little less grip. The front end "pushes" some and does not turn enough. From instinct, you let off the gas because the car is not turning enough. This makes the weight transfer to the front of the car. The front end gets a little more grip and the rear a little less, your car rotates and you make the corner fine. All is good. 

All is good except this is not the fast way to drive, having to let of the gas to make the car turn. It would be much faster around a corner if you could keep a nice steady throttle through the corner, gradually feeding in more throttle as you pass the apex and straighten out. The car would drift all four wheels evenly. Nice small inputs from the throttle transfer weight to the front or rear depending on where you want the car to be. A little more gas transfers the weight to the rear and the car goes wide, let off slightly and it sharpens up the corner.  This is a neutral handling car. By installing a thicker rear sway bar (and leaving the front bar stock) you will make the car more neutral.

The down side, you need to be careful of what you wish for. If your car is nice and neutral, when you chop off the throttle suddenly the car can kick the tail out. The ST rear bar is made with a street car in mind. It is not a crazy stiff bar, it is even adjustable. There are 2 adjustment positions. It will make the car more neutral though and you need to keep this in mind.  If you add a front bar, the car will corner flatter and give you a false sense of better handling. Also the bigger front bar will lift the inside front  tire when cornering hard. This will give you less traction just when you need it most. We do not offer a front sway bar.

If you have a RS, you have no rear sway bar at all. There are not mounting points on the rear control arms for the sway bar end links. You would have to buy the GS rear lower arms to be able to use this bar. Also you need the factory sway bar end links. The bar is an easy direct bolt on replacement for the GS and GT models.

RRE Rear Strut Tower Bar

Install Pics and Tips

Price is $69