RRE GReddy Electronic Gauge  Instructions 

GReddy 52mm Electronic Boost Gauge Instructions

Sensor Install

1. Tap the hose for the electronic sensor into the hose that runs from the intake 
manifold to the solenoid that controls the fuel pressure regulator. 

On a 1G car it is the center solenoid on the driver’s side of 
the firewall. Remove the double-ended hose connector on 
the bottom hose of the solenoid and install the tee in its 
place.

For a 2G car it is all by itself on the driver's side of the firewall. 
Cut the hose and install the tee in the hose.

2. Run the wire from the sensor through the firewall. You can poke it through 
boot for the steering column. Use an Exacto knife and cut an X-shaped 
slot through the rubber. Push the hose through this hole. Be careful routing 
the hose under the dash so as not to interfere with the movement of the 
pedals or steering column.

A-Pillar Pod Installation

To mount the gauge pod, mark the desired position first. Remove the A-pillar 
trim gently by un-snapping clips and Velcro. Drill a 3/8” diameter hole (it will be 
covered by the pod) for the wires to pass through. For the 1G cars the plastic 
is very brittle, be careful. Clean the plastic very well with alcohol or if possible 
solvent so the double-sided tape will stick. Do not peel the tape off or stick the 
pod on until the entire installation is complete and tested. You may also use 
screws to help hold the pod on. 

Wiring


Red Constant power, 12v. This can be found on the red wire of 
your turbo timer. Otherwise use a test light and probe for 
power with the ignition off. 

Orange Switched power, on with ignition. On your turbo timer use either
the green or blue wire at your turbo timer. The cigarette lighter
is also a good place to get switched power. Use the black 
wire a the center of the lighter. 

White Power for lights. We normally connect this wire with the orange 
wire to switched power. The Mitsubishi dash light wiring uses 
a floating ground system. This makes it so that you cant hook 
the boost light to the dash lights. If you want the light to go on 
and off with the lights you need to connect the wire to the tail 
light circuit. The wire harness that runs along the rocker panel,
under the carpet has this wire. Carefully slit the loom cover to 
expose the wires. The tail light wire is green with a white stripe,
with dashes on it. It is usually deeper in the harness and not 
the green/white wire right at the top.

Route the wires carefully so they don’t get caught in any moving parts under the dash.

Use a straightened-out coat hanger to fish the wires from the gauge area down through the dash if necessary.

GReddy 52mm Electronic EGT Gauge Instructions

Sensor Install

1. Cylinder number one runs the hottest so we put the sensor in the 
runner for number one. Drill the manifold with the motor running; 
this will blow out the chips. You do still need to respect the danger 
in the possibility of metal chips getting into the turbo. Drill slowly, 
especially when you are about to break thru. The entire time you 
are drilling and tapping the motor needs to be running. 

The only time we had a problem was when we forced a stuck tap, 
the tip broke off. If a large enough piece goes down in, you will hear a
"dinging" noise from it hitting the turbine wheel. You will have to 
take off the turbo to get it out, it will NOT blow out. If you are careful
and don't rush things, you wont have a problem.

The probe goes about 1/2 way between the cylinder head and the 
collector area. There is a flat spot on the heat shield that works well.
Drill a 1/4” starter hole through the heat shield and down to and just 
mark the number one runner. Next take off the heat shield, 
start the engine and drill a 21/64" hole in the manifold. With the motor
still running, tap the hole for the GReddy temp sensor fitting (1/8" NPT).
If the tap hangs up at all, don't force it. Back out 1/2 turn and go in 
some more. Don’t tap too deep, the sensor threads are short. You can
turn off the motor now.

Screw the fitting (the one threaded on both sides, screw in the longer side) 
in first. Use a little anti-seize on the threads if possible. Next slide the 
open ended nut onto the sensor and then slide the sealing washer onto 
the sensor. Slide the sensor into the fitting already screwed into the 
manifold and tighten it down with a 12 mm wrench. Cut a larger hole 
in the heat shield for the manifold. The hole should be about 1" diameter.
When you install the heat shield, be careful to not kink the wire coming
out of the sensor. 

2. Run the wire from the sensor through the firewall. You can poke it through 
boot for the steering column. Use an Exacto knife and cut an X-shaped 
slot through the rubber. Push the hose through this hole. Be careful routing 
the hose under the dash so as not to interfere with the movement of the 
pedals or steering column.

A-Pillar Pod Installation

To mount the gauge pod, mark the desired position first. Remove the A-pillar trim gently by un-snapping clips and Velcro. Drill a 3/8” diameter hole (it will be covered by the pod) for the wires to pass through. For the 1G cars the plastic 
is very brittle, be careful. Clean the plastic very well with alcohol or if possible 
solvent so the double-sided tape will stick. Do not peel the tape off or stick the 
pod on until the entire installation is complete and tested. You may also use 
screws to help hold the pod on. 


Wiring


Red Constant power, 12v. This can be found on the red wire of 
your turbo timer. Otherwise use a test light and probe for 
power with the ignition off. 

Orange Switched power, on with ignition. On your turbo timer use either
the green or blue wire at your turbo timer. The cigarette lighter
is also a good place to get switched power. Use the black 
wire a the center of the lighter. 

White Power for lights. We normally connect this wire with the orange 
wire to switched power. The Mitsubishi dash light wiring uses 
a floating ground system. This makes it so that you cant hook 
the boost light to the dash lights. If you want the light to go on 
and off with the lights you need to connect the wire to the tail 
light circuit. The wire harness that runs along the rocker panel,
under the carpet has this wire. Carefully slit the loom cover to 
expose the wires. The tail light wire is green with a white stripe,
with dashes on it. It is usually deeper in the harness and not 
the green/white wire right at the top.

Route the wires carefully so they don’t get caught in any moving parts under the dash.

Use a straightened-out coat hanger to fish the wires from the gauge area down through the dash if necessary.

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