For monitoring gauge functions, we like the following settings:
1 Gauge RPM
2 Gauges RPM and Karman
3 Gauges RPM, Karman and Correction
4 Gauges RPM, Karman, Correction and Throttle Position
You will not be able to see any values for "Air Flow" or "Pressure". Why ? Because you don't have an air flow meter or a pressure sensor to monitor. These are for other cars.
These instructions are for the Mitsubishi Eclipse and Eagle Talon. Both the 1G (89-94) and the 2G (95-99) use the same settings.
| 1. Hi-thrtl | Sets the amount of correction at high throttle |
| 2. Lo-thrtl | Sets the amount of correction at low throttle |
| 3. Th-Point | Sets the points of Hi vs. Lo throttle. If you set the Lo at 30%, at up
to 30% throttle position, the amount of correction will be referenced off the Lo-thrtl settings you have entered. If you set the Hi at 80% you will get the correction you have entered on the Hi-thrtl at any throttle position over 80%. In between 30% and 80%, it will average the amount of correction in-between. It makes a transition from the Lo to Hi. For cars with the honey combs out, 30% and 80% seem to work well. |
| 4. NePoint | This menu allows you to move around the RPM points that you set things
at. You can move the points to with in 500 rpm of the next closest point. Since the stock rev limit is around 7200 RPM, you can set the upper RPM point to 7000. Since Ne7 is factory set at 7000, you can only move Ne8 down to 7500 unless you also move Ne7 down some too. This gives you some additional adjustment somewhere, you can leave it at the top or use it at the middle RPM range. We have been using 1k, 2k, 3k, 4k, 4.5k, 5k., 6k, and 7k for our Ne-Points. |
| 5. Dec-Air | This function is for flapper door and hot wire systems. It does not seem to have any effect on the Karman system. |
| 1. Sensor Type | Choose number 4, "Karman" This being set incorrectly is the number one cause of trouble with AFCs not working properly on initial set up. You have a Karman type air flow meter, you need to select Karman. |
| 2. Car Select | Cyl. "4" Thr. Arrow points Up |
| 3. GRPH Scale | Cr: move the Correction viewing limit up to 30 % (maximum) |
| 4. Sensor Check | Allows you to trouble shoot problems with wiring. You should see the top and bottom values changing as you free rev the motor. Also can be used to read O2 sensor voltage (see below). |
| 5. VFD Bright | Lets you set the display brightness, the factory settings are fine |
| 6. Initialize | Choose "No" It really should be called Reset. It will take all the Set Up settings back to the factory settings. |
If you push briefly both "Prev." and "Next" at the same time, you jump from which ever screen that you are on in Monitor to the last screen you were in on Setting. It allows you to jump directly from monitoring throttle position and RPM directly to the Lo-thrtl setting menu for adjustment.
When on the Lo-thrtl menu, push "Next" to jump to Hi-thrtl. By pushing "Next" you can jump back and forth between Hi and Lo.
Huh ? Blue wire mod? This allows you to read Oxygen Sensor Voltage on the AFC display. On the wire harness for the AFC there are three wires that normally not used on a Eclipse. These are White, Yellow and Blue. The Blue wire is meant for the second Air Flow Meter on a Nissan 300ZX. You will connect this wire to the O2 sensor wire right at the ECU. See the Zeitroinix install instructions for info on where to get the O2 sensor signal.
To read the O2 sensor voltage, scroll down to and select the "etc." menu. Select the "Sensor Check". Of the three readings, O2 voltage will be the middle one (#2)
Here are some basic starting points that you can use to get yourself started. Each car will be different. Use these as a guide only. DO not e-mail us with your set up and ask for settings. All the cars will be different. Repeat after me "All the cars are different" The single thing that affects settings the most is injector size. After that, it depends on if you have modified your air flow meter. If you are new to this, start playing with your AFC with stock injectors. Walk before you run, so to speak. Then add bigger injectors after you are comfortable with tuning and it's effects. When you have mastered the AFC, then play with taking out honeycombs and hacking on the air flow meter to bypass more air. Look for the basic pattern going on. With honeycombs out, the MAS will read disproportionately less air at low air flow levels than at high air flow situations. You need to amplify the lower RPM settings on the Lo throttle map to compensate for this. Did I mention that all cars are different?
2G Turbo16G Turbo, RSR Cat Back, RSR DP-no cat, Filter, 17psi, Front Mount I/C, Denso in tank pump, 550cc Injectors, Side and Lower honeycombs out, Adjusting screw backed out flush Low Setting:
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2G TurboBig 16 G Turbo, Apex Cat Back, RRE DP-3" Cat, Filter, 19psi, Front Mount I/C, Walbro 255 HP in tank pump, 550cc Injectors, honeycombs all in, Adjusting screw left alone, Big GReddy FMIC Low Setting:
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2G Turbo StockT-25 turbo, RSR Cat Back, RSR DP-no cat, Filter, 14psi Low Setting:
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1G Turbo 16GThis car seemed to run lean to begin with. Even with 550s and all the
honeycombs in, Low Setting:
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Troubleshooting and Common Problems: |
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| RPM Signal off by half (1G) | Because of the way that Mitsubishi triggers the ignition coils, this is normal. To fix it, just set the Cylinders to "2" |
| Car runs like crap, wont rev past 2-3K rpm
No change in the Hz reading on the Karman display |
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| No display or other power problems | You have been swinging the AFC around by the wire harness. This will pull the harness out of it's internal socket. To check it or fix it, carefully unscrew the back cover with the proper small size Phillips screwdriver. Make sure the little connectors are plugged in all the way. |