EVO and Eclipse Turbo Parts and Performance

Posts tagged “4G

RRE 4G Eclipse Competition GS Headers (2006-2014) Install Pics and Tips

RRE 4G GS 4cyl Headers $475 plus $40 shipping within the lower 48 states:

We make 4G Eclipse headers. We are never quite sure if everyone is headed to China to get their parts or if they prefer American made parts still. While quality parts can be made in China for a decent price, quality control over workmanship and materials is always a concern. Locally we have much more control over everything.

Here is a batch that just finished up. TIG welded stainless Steel throughout. We did an install and took some step by step pictures.



When In Rome…

One of our 4G Eclipse customers in Rome asked for some Road/Race stickers with his order for springs and exhaust. He was nice enough to send us a pic!

RRE Eclipse GS 2.4 MIVEC Underdrive Pulley Kit

RRE Eclipse GS 2.4 MIVEC Underdrive Pulley Kit



$189 plus $11 shipping for USPS Priority Mail within the lower 48 states. If you are looking to get one shiped to somewhere else, contact us for a price with shipping included.

This pulley kit has yielded an improvement of 6-7 whp and  9 ft/lbs of torque in dyno testing. Both the lighter construction and smaller size helps improve power. Kit includes a new belt and the pulley. Everything that you need. Fits all 2.4 liter Eclipses and Galants from 2005 through 2014


RRE 4G GT Headers Install Tips and Pics

RRE Competition Stainless Steel Race Headers Eclipse GT V6

$630 plus $45 shipping within the lower 47 states

On the Eclipse GT, the front header is fairly straight forward. Access is great, nothing too difficult for a weekend warrior. The rear header… good luck :-P It isnt so much that the RRE header is difficult to install, it is that the rear stock exhaust manifold is very difficult to get out of there once removed. If you live where they salt the roads, be prepared to deal with lots of broken bolts and stuck threads.


Start with soaking all the nuts and bolts with a penetrating lubricant the night before. Something along the lines of Lucas Tool Box Buddy, PB Blaster or WD-40 will to the trick. With all undercar bolts and nuts, especially with exhaust bolts, much care and respect is required. Even with everything soaked well, slow and steady works best. Dont use power tools. You want to slowly remove each nut or bolt while feeling for if it is getting stuck. If something galls up or starts to seize by feeling tight after breaking it loose, stop immediately and spray more lube on the thread. Then go back tight a bit until it feels free again. Spray more lube. then try loosening it again. Keep working it back and forth with out forcing things too much. Once you really gall up the threads, you can be in a big mess. THis goes double for the O2 sensor removal. Crack them loose and work them slowly out. if they tighten up at all, stop, lube and reverse. Lube and repeat.

Unplug the O2 sensor wires. You can unbolt the stock Y Pipe fairly easily. Unbolt the front header from the cylinder head. Note which sensors plugged into where. Were they the pre cat sensors or post cat sensors. Only the post cat sensors will get threaded into the spacers. Use your cell phone camera as you go to make notes of things.

The rear header is pretty difficult to install. Well… actually it is that the rear exhaust manifold and cat assy is very difficult to remove from the car. It is in an awkward location to begin with. Then once you do get it unbolted, it does not fit out through the tight spaces well at all. The passenger front wheel and axle need to be removed to make some space for the stock manifold to come out. Even then, it is a tricky wiggle and rotation to get out of the hole. A few people give up and chop it into two pieces to get it out of there :-P. But that makes going back to stock impossible. Once out, the RRE rear header easily fits in there.

The O2 sensors that were originally after the pre cats will get installed with the spacers. The O2 sensors that were originally before the pre cats and closer to the cylinder heads will get installed directly into the new header.

Here is a pic of the hardware and gasket kit that we supply with the headers currently.


(4) 10mm nuts
(4) 10mm Bolts
(4) 10mm washers
(4) 10mm Lock Washers
(2) 2 bolt composite fire ring gaskets (to Y Pipe)
(2) 90 degree O2 Sensor Spacers

Install the headers, reusing the factory gasket to the cylinder heads is fine. Use the new supplied gaskets to the Y pipe. Tighten all the bolts, torque settings are included here at the end if you are into that.

It does not matter which O2 sensor goes in which location in the header. There is no longer a pre cat to be in front of or behind of. But the sensor that was after the cat gets a spacer (the one with the black wire cover) needs to be the one that is bolted into the spacer.


These headers eliminate the front pre-catalytic converters. They are not for use on public highways in the USA. The Eclipse GT V6 motors are are popular with various front wheel drive dirt circle track race classes so that is what they are intended for. You can still pass a tail pipe inspection with the main center cat in place if that is what your race class requires.


These headers will increase the exhaust noise considerably. It is a good sound. But it is definitely louder. It is even noticeably louder with a stock muffler. If you have a stock center cat and a straight through muffler (think Magnaflow) it will be sporty loud, think Mustang rumble) but livable. The younger you are, the more you will like it J If you remove the center main cat, things get super loud, think open race car exhaust sound. Check with your sanctioning body for sound level requirements.

O2 Sensors and Spacers-

There are Oxygen sensors (O2 sensors) that need to be transferred to the new headers from the old manifolds. If you do that part wrong or upside down somehow a little yellow light will come on. If you drop or bang on the O2 sensors too much it can damage them. If you get WD-40 or anti-seize contamination in them, it will damage them. But then again that little yellow light comes on for nothing or even something little like leaving the gas cap a little loose, its sole existence is to nag you about potential smog issues. The yellow light isn’t all that scary to us, but it seems to horrify some people.

With the current 90 degree spacers that we supply, about 1 out of 20 people get a SES light and we help them deal with it as best we can. If that possibility disturbs you then headers are not for you. We will not be redesigning anything. We have done all that is reasonably possible to make a little money selling them and still have an affordable product built in the USA. We are happy with the balance that we have struck.

This simple OBD 2 code reader works well and only costs about $20 from Amazon


IF the light does come on usually the hole in the spacer needs to be drilled out a little bit. Just a little bit bigger at a time. It is easy to make them bigger, very difficult to make them smaller

We found the difference between cars is whether or not they have a main cat after spacers and how restrictive the exhaust system is. Cars with totally free flowing low back pressure systems need a bigger hole. More restrictive systems need a smaller hole. You want to read out the actual code before modifying the spacer.

The spacer is trying to trick the ECU into thinking that the cat cleaned things up some (but not too much). More exhaust system back pressure or less will require playing with the size of the hole in the spacer and also the volume of the spacer. No one spacer works for every car. It is a black art and takes some fiddling and paying attention to what code and reacting accordingly.

But seriously, these are for race cars only and you shouldn’t be complaining about a little yellow light. Why do you even have the dash in there on your race car?

Factory Parts Drawings:



Torque Numbers


Tanabe 4G Eclipse Chassis Stiffening Bars

Tanabe Front Strut Tower Bar

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The price is $179 plus $20 covers Ground Shipping within the lower 48 states. This front upper strut tower tie bar its the GT and GS. The cross bar is a red anodized aluminum tube and it comes with black powder coated ends. For the 2006-2012 Mitsubishi Eclipse GT and GS.

RRE @ Hot Import Nights LA – December 3, 2011

Rossy took the RRE race cars to the LA Convention center for a night out this last weekend. The shop EVO 8 and 4G Eclipse got a lot of attention as always :-)


RRE’s 4G Eclipse Brake Parts and Options

Here are the brake parts that we trust and use the most for the 4G Eclipse GT and GS 2006-2012.

Centric PosiQuiet Brake Pads:

Vehicle - Front - Rear

For street cars, we like the Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic based pads. They have low dust (as low as you can get and not affect brake performance) and they also have great cold stopping performance. They have minimal wear on the rotors. The grip is also very consistent across their heat range and driving conditions. They are not a track pad, but do very well on the Eclipse on the street. It is a heavy car and these hit the sweet spot between performance and the price.

Price includes USPS Priority (2-3 day) shipping within the lower 48 states!

  • Long wearing
  • Low brake rotor wear
  • Stable friction performance across wide temperature range, particularly higher temperatures
  • Good cold stopping bite.


Stoptech Slotted Brake Rotors

4G GT Slotted Rotors
4G GS Slotted Rotors

StopTech Sport Rotors – the new name for one-piece performance upgrade rotors from StopTech. Formerly known as Power Slot or SportStop rotors, StopTech Sport Rotors are still the best aftermarket performance upgrade rotors around – only the name has changed. StopTech slotted brake rotors prevent glazing of the pads, add bite and improve wet and dry braking performance.

E-Coated Finish – StopTech Sport Rotors are finished with black e-coating on both sides of the hat, inside the cooling vanes, and on the outside edge. E-coating is a superior electro-statically applied finish designed to withstand 400 hours of salt water exposure without rusting. This is especially important on both mounting faces of the hat where it touches the hub flange and back face of the wheel. Any accumulation of rust in these area can lead to installed lateral run out issues.

Power Alloy Metallurgy – This is an exclusive feature of StopTech rotors. StopTech works with their foundry partners to adjust the molybdenum and carbon content of the castings, and to carefully control the cooling rate during production to reach targets for hardness and tensile strength.

We only sell the slotted version of these rotors. Rotors with drilled holes will always crack around the holes when driven hard. Slotted only does the best job of venting and cleaning evenly. Drilled rotors look cute for sure, we are more about the function over looks.

UPS Ground  Shipping (3-4 days) to the lower 48 states is included in the price.

Ken’s 4G Eclipse Spyder

Ken has been a customer forever here @ RRE.  He had a clean 1G Eclipse when we first met him. He landed a dream job @ MMSA for a while and used the opportunity to trade up to a 2007 4G Eclipse GT. Ever since he picked it up he has been slowly modding it.

Getting a 2007 Spyder GT V6 with 6 speed manual was tricky. As MMSA continued production into 2007, manual transmission GTs became super rare, they were thinking that people would only want autos. The color is called Ultra Red Pearl and it has the factory aero kit and Premium Package.

Ken had us install a MagnaFlow cat back exhaust and an Injen intake. The 4G GT being a large 3.8 liter V6 has a great burble and rumble to it when you add an aftermarket exhaust system. Mix in the sound from an open intake at full throttle and it is difficult to keep your foot out of the loud pedal :-) We lowered the car with Eibach ProKit springs. Ken went with some super pimp 20″ Giovanna wheels with Goodyear F1 Asymmetrics 245/30/20 to try to fill out the huge wheel wells that come on the 4G Eclipse.

Ken fabbed custom front splitter himself along with the custom carbon side pieces and carbon interior trim, MOMO shift knob and the RRE emblem on the dash finish off the interior nicely.

Ken got a pic in the January issue of Super Street magazine in the Reader’s Rides section!


RRE 4G Eclipse Axleback Exhaust

Road Race Axle Back Exhaust 2006-2008

No Longer Available – Magnaflow had a large price increase which make this part no longer competitive. If you can get a decent deal somewhere on the Magnaflow muffler (Part Number 14851 – includes the tip already installed) that we used, get it and have a local muffler shop do the install. Use the pics still posted here for inspiration.

Built using a stainless steel Magnaflow muffler. Sweet throaty sound. Not buzzy or droning at all. Your stock piping is a decent diameter and this is the best value for more power and the best sound. Aggressive but not huge 4″ double wall stainless steel tip.

Sound Clips:  Driving Inside  From Behind  Driving Off

RRE 4G Eclipse Cold Air Intakes – AEM – Injen

AEM Cold Air Intake Eclipse GT V6

AEM only makes an option for the Eclipse GT. The AEM kit includes an oversized virtually indestructible AEM Dry Flow filter. Their kit includes all necessary nuts, bolts, brackets, connecting hoses and hose clamps. Installs long and cold or short and hot. AEM makes a different model intake for the 6 Speed and Auto Tranny GT and the color choices vary a bit between them. Please be sure to choose from what transmission you have!

AEM GT Auto Transmission – Free Ground Shipping within the lower 48 states [paypal_wp_button_manager id=6147]

Injen Intakes for the Eclipse GT and GS

Injen’s strong point in their design is the lower bend down behind the radiator in front of the transmission. They used a silicone bend there to help insulate the intake from the hot air coming off the radiator. This allows for more consistent intake air temperatures. The Injen can be installed long for cold air or be installed short on one of those pesky El Niño years, For the 4G Eclipse GS equipped with the auto transmission, Injen only offers the Short Ram version because of the extra space that the auto trans takes up down there..

Eclipse GT V6 Options – Free Ground Shipping within the lower 48 states


Eclipse GS 4 Cyl Options – Free Ground Shipping within the lower 48 states 

SHAKEDOWN!! Rob Tallini driving the RRE 4G GT Eclipse in the RTA at Auto Club Speedway

July 20th, 2008- Road Race Engineering/Motorsports finished 3rd in the FWD Class at Redline Time Attack, Auto Club SpeedwayFontucky, CA. This was the debut of the Road Race Mitsubishi Eclipse Time Attack Car.

[This is a picture of Tallini driving really fast. Notice the blurriness of the background.]


RRE’s 4G 2006 Eclipse Corner Weights

We had an opportunity to check some corner weights on the new Eclipse. You have heard that this is a heavy car, it drives like a heavy car… well guess what? It is a heavy car :-P 

This GT is a non-sunroof regular stereo model and had a half tank of gas.

Side to side balance is pretty good but it is 63% of the weight on the front.

Put a 200 lb driver in the driver’s seat :-P

Curious as to what some of the individual parts weigh?  How about 43 1/2 lbs of A/C parts.

The door window assembly, 25 1/2 lbs

Mostly gutted out. Lighter but still a big pig.


Out of curiosity we weighed a stock non power seat.   EEeek! 54 lbs.

Why is the 4G Eclipse so heavy? Safety. The Eclipse shares the base platform with the Galant and the Endeavor. This combined with the newer side impact safety regulations give you the stiffest and safestEclipse ever made. The chassis is thick and double walled just about everywhere. Every support and brace is as thick as a frame rail. On older Eclipses these inner braces and supports were half as many and just thin Sheetmetal.  Add in something like 8 air bags too. Then the boat anchor 3.8 liter steel block and you got your 3600 lb car.